As predicted, my dye strike was much less intense of a shade than my samples, and there is science behind why - Dye ratios are calculated based on the attraction of the dye molecules to the fiber - it is a constant rate, dependent upon the volume of water to fiber to auxiliaries used with the dye. The less fiber that is in the water, the more dye molecules can adhere to each strand - in the same volume of water and dye 1 gram of wool will  take a much more intense strike of dye than 10 grams of wool.  The same chemical reaction is happening, but the results are concentrated in a much smaller area.

When I was microwaving samples I had a very small amount of fiber in a large amount of free dye, thus getting very intense results.  That ratio was the same as my kettly dyeing, so the sample was representative of those results because roughly the same volume worth of each material was present.

Handpainting, on the other hand, is spreading dye molecules onto the fiber - they aren't free-floating and attracting on their own, but being dispersed.  So if I am dispersing 10 ml. of dye solution directly onto the fiber (which, for simplicity's sake, we'll say is 20 grams of fiber by weight) I am going to have much morer pale results than 10 ml. of dye solution for 3 grams of fiber, which is closer to what the ratio is for kettle dye.  I believe "EUREKA!" was the first thought that popped into my head upon realizing this.

Thus, because of the volume of fiber I am using that quantity of dye on, I need a much more concentrated dye solution to yield the same results as kettle dyeing.  I need to figure out approximately how many dye molecules more attract to the fiber in free water vs. direct application, and based on my results I am hazarding the amount to be nearly triple.

So my next experiment will involve making the exact same dye colors as my first lot, but at three times the depth of shade.  I am guessing this to be the case because in my first dyeing I had two strengths of the same Fuschia/Brown/Cherry mix, but one was 1% DOS (depth of shade) and one was 3% DOS.  The 3% DOS on the yarn turned out to be nearly identical to the 1% DOS sample I worked up, which was supposed to be my most pale color.  Thus, that is my new baseline for what I want my most pale shade to be. The difficulty with this is that not all dye strikes at the same intensity, and there is an upper limit to how much dye a certain fiber will take (it's veeery high, fortunately) so this will be trial and error.  But each mix I try I will record the results of, as usual, and that should help me establish my approximate desired color value for each shade.

Ah, mad science :)

I will also be handpainting my samples instead of kettle dyeing them, and that should give me an approximation to the color I want.  Fortunately for me I have a finished skein and dye leftover, so I will dye new samples with that same base dye and use the handpainting/nuker method, and if those match the result of the finished skein I will know I have found an accurate, fast sample method that works with this particular dye application.